Satsuki… you’re so much hotter in black…

There’s one spot where I fucked it up and it’ll be a bit smoother when the whole thing is done on a thicker, interfaced fabric.

But I did it.

- Jenn

This will look like less of a hot fucking mess when it’s actually on the body and interfaced. I’ve used this technique before, so that’s how I know. And have hope.

"This is some tedious bullshit, Satsuki."
- Maya and I all day

The modern Prometheus.

- Jenn

A message from Anonymous

Hi guys! I have a question: how did you make the white part on Sayaka's skirt? I'm going to cosplay Sayaka Miki and I have no idea how to make the skirt look nice :C

Basically you want to do the same method that we did for the stripes on Super Moon’s skirt. The white piece is a really long zig zag that has to be drafted along with the blue of the skirt to make it all lay flat.

With Sayaka all you need to measure is how big you waist is, and how long you want the two side seams to be. First divide your waist measurement by two, then divide that new number by 5, that will give you your pleat measurement for how wide you need all of them to be since Sayaka has 5 box pleats on both the front and back of her skirt. (and you are drafting both the front and back at once) And then finally divide your last number by 2 for how wide the insides of your pleats are going to be.

So if I was making the skirt for me:

my waist: 32 inches

shorter side: 11 inches

longer side:14 inches

my waist divided by 2: 16 inches

the 16 divided by 5: 3.2 inches

the 3.2 divided by 2: 1.6 inches

I’ll just use these measurements while explaining, please replace them with your own, unless your waist is the same size as mine, in which case, party.

Now get you self a long, long, long piece of paper that is as at least wide as your longest side measurement, a ruler, and a pencil. The easiest way i have found to draft box pleats is start with your smallest measurement and alternate between that and the second smallest. So you would measure off the 1.6, 3.2, 1.6, 3.2 etc. Sayaka’s skirt is all box pleats so you can hide your side seams completely in it. So to start marking off your pleating lines, you are going to want to start with measuring off your smallest measurement twice before the larger one, so 1.6, 1.6, 3.2, 1.6, 3.2, 1.6 etc. The reason you are doing this is the side seams will be right in the middle of the insides of your side pleats so you need to cut it in half. Then continue along till you have all the pleats, it will be a VERY long piece.

Here is where all the math you just did pays off. Take your paper and start folding the pleats into the paper starting with the inside of the pleat on the side. (much like the side seams of our sailor skirts) Once you have it all pleated into box pleats, you want to iron the paper on a low heat, or lightly tape the pleats closed with scotch tape to make sure it does not move or open on you for the next two steps.

On the sides of all the pleats mark off your 11 inches on one side, then the 14 on the other, then draw a diagonal line connecting the two. This is now the bottom of skirt. Form there decide how wide you want your white band, (i think ours was an inch) and draw another diagonal line on top of your first, and this is now your stripe on the bottom.

Now do not take the pleats apart yet, and  literally cut along the bottom with all the pleated layers together to get the diagonal hem of the skirt, and repeat for your white stripe.

Then open it up to reveal your perfectly matching white stripe and skirt pattern!

Add seam allowance and you are ready to go. Cut two of the white stripe so you can hem it with itself, and then attach to the blue part.

- Christine

I’m working on Sailor Supergirl’s collar; here you can see the corner detail, which is not stitched down yet. When doing corners, fold the ribbon so the point goes diagonally at the corner, as it looks more professional than simply twisting it.

- Jenn

And now from the house of moon, I am almost ready to start casting! The heart for the girls is prepped, my odango shield is done, as well as my hair feathers and moon for my boots/earrings. (Totally rocking the 90’s glam) all that is left is to finish off my heart. I have the two layers together and the first layer of putty to clean up my hack job of a cut. Tomorrow I’ll clean it and start the lip around the heart.



Today we cut out all the lining, ironed some stuff, and sewed a zillion hip rolls and shoulder rolls. Ideally the suits components will be put together on the 20th-21st, which puts us more or less ahead of deadline. I’ll be doing the elbow rolls during the week… I just don’t feel like screwing around with them right this moment haha.

- Jenn

God I wish I had this level of organization. *-*

It’s a good habit to get into! I’ve started doing a weekly list, given that we seem to be doing these parties every weekend, but monthly would work too. Just pick some parts of a costume that you want to get done over the course of a weekend, week, month, etc and chip away at them. It’s a whole lot more manageable than “sew all of this costume by the end of the year” if you set goals for yourself. We’ve managed to cross just about everything off every week, and I’m sure you can too if you put yourself to task!

- Jenn

Elbow roll making time!

You will need:

  • Adequate fabric. We did ours out of peau de soie to match our skirts, but spandex looks much smoother. (See my Sailor Supergirl gloves for example.)
  • Quilt batting.
  • Standard sewing tools.
  • Very useful: forceps. If you’ve never seen these, they’re essentially round/soft ended pliers that can grip fabric without damaging it. Mine are medical forceps because if it’s good enough for flesh, it’s good enough for fabric.

What we are doing:

We are making arm “rolls” with a flat back so they can rest against your arm without warping the rolls too much. If you look at it from the side, it should look like a “B” instead of an “8”. Does that make sense? An “8” shape ends up looking less rounded in the end. The last image in this set demonstrates the difference. Of course, “B” shapes take a bit more work, but it looks nicer.

Let’s go!

First measure your forearm. Pick a measurement that allows you to bend your arm adequately by letting the tape measure a little slack. This is “X”. We are going to add 2 inches to account for the roll’s girth, and then seam allowance. (You will be sewing the vertical seam closed by hand, so whatever is comfortable to you works best.)

So your pattern piece will be a rectangle: (X” + 2” + seam allowance) x 8”

Cut out your piece. Flip it over to the back side of the fabric. Mark along the 8” side where you’re going to be folding it over the different sections; I used a marker, but you could also snip a tiny notch on the edge. If you use a marker, make sure it doesn’t bleed through! It should go something like:


The 0.5 sections line up as your seam allowance where the roll attaches to the glove. The 1.5 sections each correspond with a 0.75 section as the “arcs” over.

Pin ‘em all up and then top-stitch your lines in.

Stuff with rolls of quilt batting! We cut our batting to be something like 5” x arm measurement so they are sliiiightly shorter than the rolls. Then we rolled them up into logs and used the forceps to pull them smoothly into the channels. This is massively easier than trying to sew it with the batting already in it.

Hand sew into rings to fit around your arm.

Tada! Go champion peace, love and justice!

- Jenn

P.S. Our pictures are of various stages of making drafts and finished rolls, so don’t mind the magical colour-changing rolls in the pictures ;)

A message from blessedwithgloriousbutt

Do you guys use much under stitching when you line capes and collars and stuff?

Whenever possible, yes. It makes it massively easier, especially on larger items like capes or skirt hems. I hate ironing out lined capes without understitching.

However, our sailor scout collars aren’t understitched. Too small to bother. Instead we just iron open, then fold out and iron.

- Jenn